Destination
Koutammakou, the Land of the Batammariba
Koutammakou is a living cultural landscape of the Batammariba in northeastern Togo and neighbouring Benin. Its defining features are multistorey earthen tower houses called takienta, linked to family life, agriculture, beliefs and settlement patterns.
When to go
The drier season is usually better for the long overland journey and paths between settlements. During the rainy season, unpaved roads may be difficult to pass; because of the heat, tours should start early and enough water should be carried.
Things to see and do
Visit the landscape with a knowledgeable local guide who explains the structure of the takienta, fields, sacred places and Batammariba traditions. Homes may be entered only at the residents' invitation.
Practical tips
Koutammakou remains a residential and spiritual living space. Do not enter courtyards, houses or sacred sites without permission, and ask people for consent before taking photographs. With certain exceptions, the FCDO advises against all travel within 30 kilometres of Togo's border with Burkina Faso and against all but essential travel to the rest of the Savanes region. Do not continue into these areas, and check the current warning map and your insurance cover.
Getting there and getting around
From Lomé, a long overland journey leads north through the Kara and Kandé area. Use a reliable vehicle, an experienced driver and a local guide, travel only in daylight, and confirm fuel, road conditions and overnight stops.
Where to stay
Kara, Kandé or accommodation arranged in advance with a local community are possible bases. Clarify water, electricity, hygiene, meals, safety and the return journey.
What to try
Try dishes made with millet, sorghum, maize and yams, beans, vegetable sauces, chicken and seasonal produce from local farms.